Lucknow: The beautiful hand work of Chikankari from city of nawabs which is known for its creative blend of complicated and delicate embroidery as well as fine motifs is losing its original charm in the process of revival, due to economic exploitation of artisans and increasing market competition as told by the designer Meera Ali.

Speaking at the launch of a new book ‘Chikankari, A Lucknawi Tradition’ by Paola Manfredi here recently, Ali said in the process of revival, it was important to give the artisans sufficient time to create the Chikan (embroidery) on different fabrics like muslin, silk, chiffon among others.

“Earlier craftsmen would spend a year on one Chikankari piece. It is obvious that the more time you give to the artist the better will be the outcome.

“Now because of the competition in the market, big companies and brands who pay artisans a meagre sum for the work, want them to deliver a piece in 15 days. How can you expect to get great embroidery in 15 days?” Ali said.

Ali, along with her fashion designer and director husband Muzaffar Ali, has revived the traditional craftsmanship of Lucknow through their international couture brand ‘Kotwara’.

Looking back at her early years in Lucknow after marrying the ‘Umrao Jaan’ director, Meera remembered how the art of Chikan was almost lost 26 years ago with “unwearable and unusable” work being created.

“When I first went to Lucknow I found really sweet people, lovely language and culture but the saddest thing to see was that the Lucknow of real Chikankari that the entire world knows did not exist anymore.

“All the work that was being done in the name of Chikan was taken over by the middle man. What they were making was unwearable and unusable. There was a standard kurta that came out with two straight lines of daraz,” the fashion designer said.

The book’s author, who has lived and worked in India for over 30 years now, resonated Ali’s thoughts about how the “emotionally charged” work is affected by exploitative practices.

“Chikankari is a highly evocative work and emotionally charged too. It is reputed to be one of the finest traditional embroideries.